Deciphering Window and Exterior Door Terminology
02/14/2012 07:16 AM
Over the years windows and doors have evolved using improved methods to make them more energy efficient, easier to maintain, and simpler to operate. Today's products come in many style and sizes, incorporating these various technologies. Perhaps you want to install new windows or doors in your custom home or are considering replacing them during a remodeling project. Choosing a window brand, door type, or overall style can be overwhelming and take a great deal of time, but it does not have to be that way.
Photos courtesy of Pella
While many of us may know we would like to replace residential doors and windows, we may not know how to ask for what we want. Perhaps it will simplify the process if I go over a few terms and useful info that will come in handy during the process.
Window and door frames can be made of wood, composites, vinyl, or aluminum clad. They can also be mixed and matched such as wood interiors with aluminum-clad exteriors. Windows that are vinyl inside and out are maintenance-free but considered to be on the lower end of the spectrum or as described as "builder grade." Higher-end windows usually incorporate a wood interior with a vinyl or aluminum-clad exterior. Windows that are wood inside and outside are generally recommended for matching historical details since they require the most exterior maintenance and are prone to water damage and decay.
Glazing is the term used for the glass on a window or door. All exterior doors and windows today need to meet certain energy requirements and therefore are now double - or triple - paned glass. U-Factor is the rate of heat loss and is used to determine the energy efficiency of glazing (a lower number is better). Today’s glazings can also incorporate insulating gases like argon between the panes of glass to increase energy efficiency. Low-E glazing reduces the heat transfer through the glass while letting visible light pass through.
Muntins are the grills or grid patterns you see on the glazing of windows and doors. True Divided Light (TDL) is an old-fashioned style and is usually found in single pane (uninsulated) windows in which each glass pane in the pattern is an individual piece of glass. Simulated Divided Light -- SDL -- uses one panel of glass (insulated) with a muntin bar adhered to the glass on both the interior and exterior. Snap-in grills are, well, exactly that: Grills that snap into place and achieve the desired muntin pattern. Grids Between Glass -- GBG – is the term for when the muntin bars are located between the inside and outside glass panes in the "air space" to create the muntin design.
Windows and doors are an extremely important part of the building envelope and can also be a very substantial part of a new home or remodeling project’s budget. I urge you to research the various window manufacturers and compare features and specifications. I often tell homeowners to strive for a middle ground between cost, aesthetics, and energy efficiency. If we work together, one of my top priorities is to help you select optimal window and door products while delivering a pleasant and seamless experience.
For your information, here are additional terms that may help during your research: http://www.efficientwindows.org/glossary.cfm
Photos courtesy of Pella
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
Photos courtesy of Pella
While many of us may know we would like to replace residential doors and windows, we may not know how to ask for what we want. Perhaps it will simplify the process if I go over a few terms and useful info that will come in handy during the process.
Window and door frames can be made of wood, composites, vinyl, or aluminum clad. They can also be mixed and matched such as wood interiors with aluminum-clad exteriors. Windows that are vinyl inside and out are maintenance-free but considered to be on the lower end of the spectrum or as described as "builder grade." Higher-end windows usually incorporate a wood interior with a vinyl or aluminum-clad exterior. Windows that are wood inside and outside are generally recommended for matching historical details since they require the most exterior maintenance and are prone to water damage and decay.
Glazing is the term used for the glass on a window or door. All exterior doors and windows today need to meet certain energy requirements and therefore are now double - or triple - paned glass. U-Factor is the rate of heat loss and is used to determine the energy efficiency of glazing (a lower number is better). Today’s glazings can also incorporate insulating gases like argon between the panes of glass to increase energy efficiency. Low-E glazing reduces the heat transfer through the glass while letting visible light pass through.
Muntins are the grills or grid patterns you see on the glazing of windows and doors. True Divided Light (TDL) is an old-fashioned style and is usually found in single pane (uninsulated) windows in which each glass pane in the pattern is an individual piece of glass. Simulated Divided Light -- SDL -- uses one panel of glass (insulated) with a muntin bar adhered to the glass on both the interior and exterior. Snap-in grills are, well, exactly that: Grills that snap into place and achieve the desired muntin pattern. Grids Between Glass -- GBG – is the term for when the muntin bars are located between the inside and outside glass panes in the "air space" to create the muntin design.
Windows and doors are an extremely important part of the building envelope and can also be a very substantial part of a new home or remodeling project’s budget. I urge you to research the various window manufacturers and compare features and specifications. I often tell homeowners to strive for a middle ground between cost, aesthetics, and energy efficiency. If we work together, one of my top priorities is to help you select optimal window and door products while delivering a pleasant and seamless experience.
For your information, here are additional terms that may help during your research: http://www.efficientwindows.org/glossary.cfm
Photos courtesy of Pella
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
Ipé Decking
02/06/2012 02:50 PM
Ipé (pronounced e-pay) is a wood becoming more commonly used as a decking material as it is durable and naturally resistant to rot, abrasion and weather, unlike traditional decking materials. Additionally, it is almost five times harder and twice as dense as most woods. There are also similar products such as Tiger Wood, Jatoba, and some species of Mahogany. We have had very good success using this product and think it is one of the best looking decking options available. It is not an easy product to work with but with the right tools and some patience the finished product is very rewarding.
Here are some care and use tips for Ipé:
Sealing: Ipe has its own natural defense against decay, water absorption, cupping, splintering and twisting, so sealing is not necessary. However, if you choose to seal your deck, be sure to coat the entire length of each board without stopping in the middle, which will be obvious when it dries.
Finishing: If left untreated, Ipe will stay smooth and splinter free and will weather to a silver-gray color in six to 12 months. However, to help prevent surface discoloration and checking, which is a naturally occurring lengthwise separation of the wood, you can add a finish with a penetrating, high-quality, water-seal product immediately after installation. No further maintenance will be needed except for regular cleaning.
As with almost all building materials, direct exposure to the sun will degrade the finish and turn Ipé a grey color more quickly so a high-quality penetrating oil finish with a high UV inhibitor rating should be used for installations if you want a "finished wood" appearance. To maintain the desired color, the finish should be applied periodically depending on sun exposure and surface wear. Don't excessively apply an overcoat as this may cause the surface to become sticky and can create a "puddle" look. You should always apply a thin coat using small paint roller or pad when the deck is clean and use a clean rag to remove any of the excess. If, however, you would like the deep brown color back again, you can use a pressure washer to get the original color back. Pressure washing can cause damage if not done carefully so test a small area before you do the whole deck.
Cleaning: Keep your deck free of leaves, pine needles and other debris as they can retain water and clog drainage, which doesn't allow the deck to dry properly. Cleaning an Ipe deck can bring out the original colors and protect it. You can begin by sanding scratches or blemishes using an 80-grit sand paper. Before applying the cleaner, the deck should be thoroughly wet with water using a garden hose to remove dirt and avoid streaking. After the cleaner is applied using a garden sprayer or hand sprayer, allow it to set for 30 minutes. Dirt should be removed with a stiff bristle that isn't made of metal. Before applying the deck finisher, the deck should be hosed down with water again and allowed to dry thoroughly.
Posted by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.)
Here are some care and use tips for Ipé:
Sealing: Ipe has its own natural defense against decay, water absorption, cupping, splintering and twisting, so sealing is not necessary. However, if you choose to seal your deck, be sure to coat the entire length of each board without stopping in the middle, which will be obvious when it dries.
Finishing: If left untreated, Ipe will stay smooth and splinter free and will weather to a silver-gray color in six to 12 months. However, to help prevent surface discoloration and checking, which is a naturally occurring lengthwise separation of the wood, you can add a finish with a penetrating, high-quality, water-seal product immediately after installation. No further maintenance will be needed except for regular cleaning.
As with almost all building materials, direct exposure to the sun will degrade the finish and turn Ipé a grey color more quickly so a high-quality penetrating oil finish with a high UV inhibitor rating should be used for installations if you want a "finished wood" appearance. To maintain the desired color, the finish should be applied periodically depending on sun exposure and surface wear. Don't excessively apply an overcoat as this may cause the surface to become sticky and can create a "puddle" look. You should always apply a thin coat using small paint roller or pad when the deck is clean and use a clean rag to remove any of the excess. If, however, you would like the deep brown color back again, you can use a pressure washer to get the original color back. Pressure washing can cause damage if not done carefully so test a small area before you do the whole deck.
Cleaning: Keep your deck free of leaves, pine needles and other debris as they can retain water and clog drainage, which doesn't allow the deck to dry properly. Cleaning an Ipe deck can bring out the original colors and protect it. You can begin by sanding scratches or blemishes using an 80-grit sand paper. Before applying the cleaner, the deck should be thoroughly wet with water using a garden hose to remove dirt and avoid streaking. After the cleaner is applied using a garden sprayer or hand sprayer, allow it to set for 30 minutes. Dirt should be removed with a stiff bristle that isn't made of metal. Before applying the deck finisher, the deck should be hosed down with water again and allowed to dry thoroughly.
Posted by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.)
The Wine Cellar
09/26/2011 08:22 AM
There are many spaces that can be converted to "Specialty" rooms in the house. Popular ones are Home Theaters, Media Rooms, Libraries, and Home Offices. Today I will focus on one - the Wine Cellar
Wine Cellars can be very simplistic or incredibly extravagant. Some people have a very small collection of wine to store and can get by with a refrigerator style unit that can be placed under a counter or in a small closet. Others may have very extensive collections that require quite a large space. This is what truly makes the difference between simple wine storage and a dedicated wine cellar. Wine cellars are generally large enough to walk in and require some special considerations before constructing.
A true wine cellar should be capable of controlling the following:
A stable floor and well framed/insulated walls with a sturdy rack system will solve most of the vibration issues.
A wine refrigeration unit that is specifically designed for the space, based on room size and volume of wine stored, will be able to maintain correct temperature and humidity levels.
A vapor barrier is a must and is the most commonly overlooked item in the construction of wine cellars. It is crucial that a proper vapor barrier be installed to keep the required humidity in the wine cellar from migrating to other parts of the home.
Lastly, the rack systems. These are generally wood systems that are made of redwood, cedar, mahogany, pine and others. Racks can be custom designed to accommodate any amount of wine and various bottle sizes. There are many custom wine rack companies that will take the dimensions of your space along with the amount of wine you plan to store and design a system that will maximize your storage capability while minting an attractive look and feel to the racking system.
…courtesy The Wine Enthusiast
If you are a wine enthusiast a Wine Cellar is a must have. If properly design and constructed the space will operate trouble free for many years. Although this is something that could be considered a do-it-yourself project I highly suggest that you consult a professional first. At the very least you need to have the wine cooling unit sized properly for your space.
Cheers,
Writing by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.)
Wine Cellars can be very simplistic or incredibly extravagant. Some people have a very small collection of wine to store and can get by with a refrigerator style unit that can be placed under a counter or in a small closet. Others may have very extensive collections that require quite a large space. This is what truly makes the difference between simple wine storage and a dedicated wine cellar. Wine cellars are generally large enough to walk in and require some special considerations before constructing.
A true wine cellar should be capable of controlling the following:
- Light: A dark space such as a basement is an ideal location since light can be controlled by the user and light infiltration can be kept to a minimum
- Humidity: 55% to 75% is the range that most wine cellars need to operate in. The type of wine you store may require more specific numbers
- Temperature: 55 to 58 degrees F is considered acceptable for wine storage
- Vibration - Wine stored for long periods of time can be susceptible to vibration. A firm floor and rack system is a must
A stable floor and well framed/insulated walls with a sturdy rack system will solve most of the vibration issues.
A wine refrigeration unit that is specifically designed for the space, based on room size and volume of wine stored, will be able to maintain correct temperature and humidity levels.
A vapor barrier is a must and is the most commonly overlooked item in the construction of wine cellars. It is crucial that a proper vapor barrier be installed to keep the required humidity in the wine cellar from migrating to other parts of the home.
Lastly, the rack systems. These are generally wood systems that are made of redwood, cedar, mahogany, pine and others. Racks can be custom designed to accommodate any amount of wine and various bottle sizes. There are many custom wine rack companies that will take the dimensions of your space along with the amount of wine you plan to store and design a system that will maximize your storage capability while minting an attractive look and feel to the racking system.
…courtesy The Wine Enthusiast
If you are a wine enthusiast a Wine Cellar is a must have. If properly design and constructed the space will operate trouble free for many years. Although this is something that could be considered a do-it-yourself project I highly suggest that you consult a professional first. At the very least you need to have the wine cooling unit sized properly for your space.
Cheers,
Writing by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.)
Don’t Get Caught in the Dark
09/19/2011 08:13 AM
In the US, approximately 3.5 million people lose their power in any given week. While an outage is no fun to experience, chances are you may come up against the situation of not having electrical power to your home at some point. This dilemma can be caused by electrical shutdown for maintenance or failure, or more likely the loss will be caused by weather. In either case, you will want your living conditions to be disrupted as little as possible.
Generators offer a vital supply and communication line to a household that has lost its connection to a main power source. There are generally two types: Smaller portable units and larger permanent whole-house models. There are also various power types such as gasoline, diesel, and natural gas or propane.
Whole-house Generators
A whole-house backup generator does just what it says: in the event you go off the power grid, these provide most of the backup you need to run your home smoothly during this time. Whole-house generators are convenient since they are "back-fed" directly into the house’s electrical system and -- in some installations -- can come on automatically during an outage. Whole-house systems are much more expansive than portable systems.
These are an important investment that should be on any home’s priority list. Determining which whole-house generator is best for your house requires a little prep work. The main focus should be on purchasing a unit that is adequate for your home. The most logical way to determine your needs is to envision your household without power. Some outages may be short in duration, while others could last days or weeks. What would you miss most during an outage?
You will need to know how big your home is and if your heating unit and water heater are electric. Also list all the appliances you will want to run off your generator. Begin with the essentials and then go through your home room-by-room; after that you can add on the extras. When you finish this list the easiest thing to do is to visit your preferred manufacturer’s Web site and review their sizing sheets. Use these to determine the wattage and size requirements for whole-house generators before signing on with a professional to do the installation.
Which Fuel Suits You?
If you are not going to be using a fixed generator that is connected to your main natural gas line you will need to choose which fuel is best for your whole-house generator. This should be decided by availability and cost. First, you have the typical gasoline or diesel engines. These are fine, but you will be forced to refuel on a continuous basis, day and night. For example, a standard 1000-watt generator uses approximately 1 gallon of fuel every two hours. Whole-house diesel generators are a good choice. Robust and easy to maintain, they do cost a bit more initially; you can also investigate a used diesel generator, which will be more affordable. Diesel is also a cheaper fuel so the running costs will be lower. However, if diesel is difficult to find in your area or you have to travel to get it then this is not your best solution.
Next, there are generators that use LP or propane gas. These can be connected directly to an LP or propane tank and you will have power as long as you have gas. It would be a good idea to maintain a higher level of gas in your tank going into the winter in case you also have to tap into it for generator purposes.
Whole-house generators can last up to 20 years if maintained correctly and kept in the right environment. A good, well-installed, whole-house generator will add value to your home if you decide to sell. Keep this in mind when deciding which type of standby generator to purchase. Remember to always go for bigger than you currently need. Think about the future, allowing for growth and the things you may have forgotten about.
Portable Generators
Portable generators are convenient since they can be move from place to place but are generally limited to the amount of devices they can power. With these, you have to plug in the devices directly to the generator.
Wheeled, portable generators are the biggest sellers but you might need plenty of fuel on hand since filling stations often shut down during blackouts and most home-sized models use 12 to 18 gallons of gasoline per day. You'll also need to preserve that fuel with stabilizer and store it in a well-vented shed or other area, which is deemed to be a sufficient distance -- for safety factors -- from the house and any ignition source.
Portable models typically may put out enough wattage for plug-in appliances and lights, but not nearly enough for heavy power drains like central air-conditioning. Again, add up the watts for the items you need before purchasing. Keep in mind you will need a power-transfer switch to power hardwired circuits and to avoid using extension cords.
Alleviate the Risk Factors
There are several key precautions to remember when using a generator backup system, including:
Make sure to hire a professional to conduct an installation that is safe -- both now and in the future. Choose wisely and you will be rewarded with many years of good service -- minus the worry of what to do when the power goes out.
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
Generators offer a vital supply and communication line to a household that has lost its connection to a main power source. There are generally two types: Smaller portable units and larger permanent whole-house models. There are also various power types such as gasoline, diesel, and natural gas or propane.
Whole-house Generators
A whole-house backup generator does just what it says: in the event you go off the power grid, these provide most of the backup you need to run your home smoothly during this time. Whole-house generators are convenient since they are "back-fed" directly into the house’s electrical system and -- in some installations -- can come on automatically during an outage. Whole-house systems are much more expansive than portable systems.
These are an important investment that should be on any home’s priority list. Determining which whole-house generator is best for your house requires a little prep work. The main focus should be on purchasing a unit that is adequate for your home. The most logical way to determine your needs is to envision your household without power. Some outages may be short in duration, while others could last days or weeks. What would you miss most during an outage?
You will need to know how big your home is and if your heating unit and water heater are electric. Also list all the appliances you will want to run off your generator. Begin with the essentials and then go through your home room-by-room; after that you can add on the extras. When you finish this list the easiest thing to do is to visit your preferred manufacturer’s Web site and review their sizing sheets. Use these to determine the wattage and size requirements for whole-house generators before signing on with a professional to do the installation.
Which Fuel Suits You?
If you are not going to be using a fixed generator that is connected to your main natural gas line you will need to choose which fuel is best for your whole-house generator. This should be decided by availability and cost. First, you have the typical gasoline or diesel engines. These are fine, but you will be forced to refuel on a continuous basis, day and night. For example, a standard 1000-watt generator uses approximately 1 gallon of fuel every two hours. Whole-house diesel generators are a good choice. Robust and easy to maintain, they do cost a bit more initially; you can also investigate a used diesel generator, which will be more affordable. Diesel is also a cheaper fuel so the running costs will be lower. However, if diesel is difficult to find in your area or you have to travel to get it then this is not your best solution.
Next, there are generators that use LP or propane gas. These can be connected directly to an LP or propane tank and you will have power as long as you have gas. It would be a good idea to maintain a higher level of gas in your tank going into the winter in case you also have to tap into it for generator purposes.
Whole-house generators can last up to 20 years if maintained correctly and kept in the right environment. A good, well-installed, whole-house generator will add value to your home if you decide to sell. Keep this in mind when deciding which type of standby generator to purchase. Remember to always go for bigger than you currently need. Think about the future, allowing for growth and the things you may have forgotten about.
Portable Generators
Portable generators are convenient since they can be move from place to place but are generally limited to the amount of devices they can power. With these, you have to plug in the devices directly to the generator.
Wheeled, portable generators are the biggest sellers but you might need plenty of fuel on hand since filling stations often shut down during blackouts and most home-sized models use 12 to 18 gallons of gasoline per day. You'll also need to preserve that fuel with stabilizer and store it in a well-vented shed or other area, which is deemed to be a sufficient distance -- for safety factors -- from the house and any ignition source.
Portable models typically may put out enough wattage for plug-in appliances and lights, but not nearly enough for heavy power drains like central air-conditioning. Again, add up the watts for the items you need before purchasing. Keep in mind you will need a power-transfer switch to power hardwired circuits and to avoid using extension cords.
Alleviate the Risk Factors
There are several key precautions to remember when using a generator backup system, including:
- Prevent carbon-monoxide poisoning by always running your generator outdoors and at least 15 feet away from the house. Never run it in the basement, garage, or any other enclosed space.
- Install a transfer switch to connect the unit to your home's wiring system. Never connect a generator directly to your house.
- Reduce fire risk by turning off gasoline-powered generators before refueling them.
- Store gasoline in an ANSI-approved container and in a cool, well-ventilated area.
Make sure to hire a professional to conduct an installation that is safe -- both now and in the future. Choose wisely and you will be rewarded with many years of good service -- minus the worry of what to do when the power goes out.
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
Window Shopping Takes On A New Meaning
09/06/2011 08:09 AM
How do you know when the time is right to retool your home’s windows? Obviously energy efficiency is one of the main reasons for replacement but consider that perhaps you can save on the project by retrofitting -- replacing the window sashes and leaving the frames intact -- vs. replacing the entire unit. If the exterior frame is in good shape this is a smart solution because it’s cheaper than a full replacement.
What if you do choose replacement to pare down costly energy bills when your old single-pane windows are not efficient, thus forcing your furnace and air conditioner to work harder? A solution to consider is the replacement of your windows (and doors) with Low-E (Low-Emissivity) insulating, double- or triple-pane glass. For maximum energy savings, purchase ENERGY STAR qualified products.
Other reasons and solutions for updating windows include:
Choose the Right Contractor
The right contractor can install your new windows at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner, but don’t forget the importance of the professional’s credibility and reliability. Some points to cover before selecting a contractor include the following:
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
What if you do choose replacement to pare down costly energy bills when your old single-pane windows are not efficient, thus forcing your furnace and air conditioner to work harder? A solution to consider is the replacement of your windows (and doors) with Low-E (Low-Emissivity) insulating, double- or triple-pane glass. For maximum energy savings, purchase ENERGY STAR qualified products.
Other reasons and solutions for updating windows include:
- Aesthetics: windows have lost their visual appeal on the frames and panes due to chipping, cracks, deterioration, or water stains, for example. Solution: New windows will dramatically improve the beauty of your home -- inside and out.
- Operability: some units are simply too hard to operate or do not operate at all for fresh-air access, cleaning, or as emergency escape routes. Solution: Today's replacement wood, fiberglass, aluminum clad, and vinyl windows open and close almost effortlessly. They’re designed to make cleaning the exterior glass from inside your house easy and require little maintenance. Another bonus is you won't find yourself hunting for obsolete replacement parts.
- Sound: many older windows do an inadequate job when it comes to blocking exterior noise that makes its way into your home. Solution: Recalibrate using double-pane glass, which is better than single-pane glass in terms of noise blockage and reduction.
- Functionality: when embarking on a project you want to make sure you end up with enhanced results compared to what you are used to with the current windows. Solution: Sometimes changing from one style to another -- such as double hung to casement -- will allow easier operation or promote the movement of outside air.
- Sub-par performance: Air is leaking in and out of your windows causing hot and cold drafts, or perhaps there is unsightly fogging between the panes. Solution: New windows with high-performance, insulating-glass technology helps eliminate drafts and will help keep the glass from conducting heat or cold making your home more comfortable and energy efficient year-round.
- Fade damage: the sun’s fading rays make their way through, damaging your furniture, carpet, and window treatments. Solution: Again, replacement windows with Low-E glass coatings reflect the sun's UV rays away from your home, to help protect your home’s interior from fade damage.
Choose the Right Contractor
The right contractor can install your new windows at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner, but don’t forget the importance of the professional’s credibility and reliability. Some points to cover before selecting a contractor include the following:
- Obtain and check references from a prospective contractor.
- Assess prior work firsthand and peruse the contractor’s portfolio.
- Ensure the contractor is licensed with insurance coverage and a building permit for your city.
- Share project details with the contractor and listen to feedback and recommendations before comparing this input with that of other potential contractors.
- Compare cost estimates provided by contractors.
Writing collaborated by Duane Johns (Advanced Renovations, Inc.) and Ginger Sprinkle @ nine dots branding & marketing company (ginger@ninedotsbranding.com).
Countertops - the Good, the Bad, and the Ideal for Your Needs
03/01/2011 08:12 AM
Installing new kitchen countertops is one of the most dramatic ways to express your home’s sense of style. Whether made from a natural stone such as granite or quartz or another such as laminate or solid surface, countertops can enhance your lifestyle while delivering more home equity. The key for your lifestyle today and your home’s value in the future: It’s important to feel confident you’re selecting the countertop that will work best for years to come.
Factors to consider include budget, maintenance and lifestyle. You also have options for materials such as granite, quartz, solid surface, concrete, laminate, wood, stainless steel, and copper. Also think about corners; edges, inlays; sinks and faucets; and/or custom shapes.
Let’s take a quick-guide look at types, styles, and varieties, as well as pros, cons, and pricing. Main types comprise:
Read More...
Factors to consider include budget, maintenance and lifestyle. You also have options for materials such as granite, quartz, solid surface, concrete, laminate, wood, stainless steel, and copper. Also think about corners; edges, inlays; sinks and faucets; and/or custom shapes.
Let’s take a quick-guide look at types, styles, and varieties, as well as pros, cons, and pricing. Main types comprise:
Read More...
Bath Exhaust Fans
02/01/2011 12:03 PM
A common item replaced during many bathroom renovations is the old noisy exhaust fan mounted to the ceiling. They typically are poor air movers to begin with and, in most cases, unsightly.
The product we often use in replacement is manufactured by Fantech. The Fantech fan system is an inline fan system. This means that fan can be mounted remotely from the actual grill, reducing the amount of noise heard at the point of use. Plus, one fan can be used to ventilate multiple grills (locations).
Read More...
The product we often use in replacement is manufactured by Fantech. The Fantech fan system is an inline fan system. This means that fan can be mounted remotely from the actual grill, reducing the amount of noise heard at the point of use. Plus, one fan can be used to ventilate multiple grills (locations).
Read More...